Anyone else ever feel like they’re plateaued at a grade and can’t seem to break through to the next level? If not, count yourself as one of the few lucky ones. For most, this happens at various points across their climbing lifespan. Everyone has their own reason for wanting to move on to harder grades: feeling stronger, internal validation, keeping up with friends, etc.
 
But, for most people (myself included), it can be super difficult at times to figure out what to focus on to improve in tangible or meaningful ways.
 
For some, it’s easy enough to point to technique or finger strength as the cause of stalled progression. But, for most, the answer is usually a whole lot more complicated...until it’s not.
 
In my experience, some of the most common reasons climbers end up with stalled progression are:

🔸Failing to challenge yourself adequately
🔹Influence of non-climbing components of performance (e.g., recovery)
🔸The influence of fear
🔹Training strength's rather than modifiable weaknesses

​Curious to learn more about each of the above and read about some ways to overcome them? Click on the 'read more' button below!

Raise a calloused chalky hand if you’ve had injuries delay your progress toward being the best climbing version of yourself 🖐
 
Sure, some people climb for years without injury - but it’s extremely rare to find someone whose been climbing for any length of time that has avoided injury entirely. Often, there are numerous factors involved: training habits, previous injury history, or plain bad luck. Regardless of how you’ve become injured in the past, there are a few principles that are important to understand if you’re to avoid injury in the future. Keep reading to learn more about the four cruxes that I’ve noticed repeatedly dry-fire climbers on to belay or spotting duty.

​Curious to learn more? Click on the 'read more' button below!

​Hands. They are used for countless tasks and hobbies throughout each day and likely never given a second thought about how they work. But, for rock climbers the importance of our hands takes on added meaning. Not only do our hands become intricately tied to our ability to function during day-to-day tasks, but also to engage in what for many is the core of their social activity, fitness and enjoyment.
 
First, let’s talk about hand function. While it may seem obvious that our hands help us grasp objects such as climbing holds, they also act as conduits for forces going to and from the wrist, elbow and shoulder. If our hands are inadequately conditioned or injured, the body will compensate for the hand by altering how it engages or uses the rest of the limb. This means that we need to consider climbing volume as well as intensity when training or rehabbing our hands to mitigate injury risk and maximize intended performance gains.

Curious to learn more? Click on the 'read more' button below!